Olympus PBR Scan Project

blender
photoscan
scanning

(John Greenstone) #1

Hello! I like to start a new Olympus Project WIP about scanning my old film camera:


(Dark Minaz) #2

so you use your new camera to scan your old camera :stuck_out_tongue:
i did like those old cameras, taking some shots, having to wait till you get the negatives back just to know if you even got a decent shot in there.

id be quite interested to see how good the scan gets and how much you might have to tweak in blender :slight_smile:


(John Greenstone) #3

Yep, stay tunned! And maybe one day I'll spend 2-3 35mm films to make SuperNativeVintage Photogrammetry Reconstruction of my digital camera:)


(Shaderbytes) #4

look it is a fossil :slight_smile: I used to work in a photographic lab many years ago when film cameras were still current devices..

All wedding photographers used to love fuji velvia 50 with a push or pull while processing :slight_smile:


(John Greenstone) #5

I got it from my dad, really old one, front lens has a big crack, but it doesnt affect for shots


(John Greenstone) #6

Ok! It's kind of big scan project, and here is why:

  • I like to scan my old film Olympus camera that has a
    wide range of materials, from simple rough to black and mirror glossy.
  • I like to scan it with good details quality.
  • Make it really PBR calibrated.
  • With Photoscan and Photoshop as proprietary soft and
    Blender and Meshmixer as free.
  • I'll use only SonyA 58 and Iphone5, and process photos on 8Gb RAM.

(Shaderbytes) #7

8GB of ram is not much when it comes to photogrammetry :slight_smile: I dont do it myself but I've read it on scanning groups on facebook. I used to have 16GB which I upgraded to 32GB just for cg work in general :slight_smile:


(John Greenstone) #8

Yes, and this is the challenging point. Actually, I can easily upgrade to 16, and soon I'll be hungry for 32, 64 and so on. On forums you can find that 256 is not so much!:slight_smile: It's all about your workflow. There is table from Agisoft for 12Mpix shots:


(John Greenstone) #9

I have 24Mpix x 200. See you next year:) (Not really)
Actually, scan process part is successfully done now.
But lets start from the beginning, few months ago. When I tried to scan front of camera first time.


(John Greenstone) #10

I started from the most difficult part I thought(finally it is). There are multiple glossy mats. Complex shapes. 3 parts has a BLACK MIRROR GLOSS. That's a real problem. Result:


(John Greenstone) #11

Oh. That's long story. Let's go back more:) When I tried to
scan an Engine in Technical Museum, there was no light
at all even for 3600 ISO. So I had no choice and used a
regular front flash on camera.


(Halon Keiser) #12

You're scanning with just photos, not a depth sensor?
I didn't know that was possible...


(Shaderbytes) #13

you need to search photogrammetry , it is very popular at the moment and there are several programs for converting your images into 3d , some free ones and some premium ones. There are heaps of photogrammetry scanned models posted on sketchfab all the time!

@johngreenstone scan results are rather poor. I know glossy surfaces are problematic in general but still im sure you can get better results than that. I cant offer any advice since I dont do any scanning myself. There is a great 3d scanning group on facebook where I sure you can get some valuable input for getting better results.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/3dsug/


(John Greenstone) #14

@Halon_Keiser Only photos. But on my page you can find a lot of tech references based on depth sensors.
@shaderbytes Thanks, this shots from first bad reconstruction I tried few month ago. It represent quality with regular scan workflow. As I said model is done with detaiIs I like and I'm almost 100% sure my method is not presented in any tutorial, Just let me follow the time,, I like to show how I got it. And I'll publish final quality pictures very soon:)


(John Greenstone) #15

Back to Engine.
You probably know:
The first rule of Fightogrammetry Club is: you do not talk about Flash:)
Except advanced multiflash softbox systems
of course. I'm talking about simplest front flash
included in any DSLR and IPhone. It's not a good thing even for regular photography.
If you do, you have to use at least small
portable softbox and linear polar filters on
flash and radial polar filter on camera and
blablabla...
No. No choice:) I had only simple front speedlight or no pics at all.


(John Greenstone) #16

And finally I got no problems! Even for shiny elements there is no
holes. Also I realised that it's a good way to highlight more details.


(John Greenstone) #17

That was first step. Next I tried to
use this method for full body
glossy objects. I call it "FrontFlashScratchReconstruction"(FFSR). I think I'll write separate post
about it later. I tried it partially successfully for very shiny but
not 100% mirror objects: spoon, cup and pan. Without FFSR there is
just hole instead of object reconstructed.


(John Greenstone) #18

If you'll try front flash you'll find there a
lot of scratches. And yes! It could be
used for reconstruction!


(John Greenstone) #19

How this spoon looks in regular light:


Possible to scan? Yes!
Result:

I remind you: usually with this kind of object we get... emm.. nothing:)


(John Greenstone) #20

Then a pan:


actually this side is ok and can be scanned without any tricks:
shot:
result: